28th September 2013 Kashan, Iran to Yazd, Iran

28th September 2013 Kashan, Iran to Yazd, Iran

I had a fruit breakfast with different types of melon and fresh dates... the finest dates I have ever eaten.

The manager of the Kashan Negarestan had recommended a visit into the old city to take a look at some of the historic homes..... I dutifully visited. Externally there Is nothing to be seen, I found myself in a neighbourhood that was very ordinary. A local nudged me in the direction of an entrance to the Abbasian House. I paid an entry fee of 75,000IR and was frankly prepared to be disappointed. The house was exquisite.... a maze of corridors, courtyards, stained glass, mirrored walls and ceilings

To be honest, I spent too little time in the Abbasian house.  I set out for Yazd at 10.00 am.

The motorway ran out after 40 miles. Iran's dual carriageways are nothing to be ashamed of. I travelled through true wilderness and occasionally encountered civilization....... 

Yazd mileometer19976 (253 miles riden)

27th September 2013 Zanjan, Iran to Kashan, Iran

27th September 2013  Zanjan, Iran to Kashan, Iran

The motorway south towards Tehran gets busier and busier, I have to say Iran’s motorways are generally good. They are not as a good as Turkey’s roads, but then again few countries on the scale of Turkey could boast of roads as fine.

I break my journey with stops every 100 miles or so. I make a point of buying petrol at every stop. I have a coke and chat to locals. Foreign cars / motorcycles provoke conversation. The choice of locally manufactured cars in Iran is severely limited. Only the really wealthy can afford to Import Japanese or European cars….. Foreign motorcycles are all but none existent, in part because there is a restriction on engine capacity and because they are officially banned from the motorways. The ban is lightly flouted by locals but by and large respected. I am the only person on the motorway with a motorcycle, and this year the Police don’t seem to mind. Iranians in their cars pull alongside within a few feet at 70mph to photograph or video me and the bike. Un-nerving and dangerous. BMW.... Bee Em Vay

At one petrol stop an Italian biker pulls in behind me…. We exchange hellos… he is riding a TransAlp 650 to Dubai, to work the winter.

Pistachio’s are grown in Iran and are sold at a lot of service stations. During one stop a shop owner gives me a bag full of fresh pistachio. They have a thin fleshy peal that you rub to get to the nut we would generally recognise as a pistachio.

Although my GPS has an Iranian map, I can’t enter destinations and it won’t provide me with a route. I circumnavigated Tehran from experience…..just! I had a vestigial memory of the "Azadagan Expressway" I stopped metres short of the exit and chatted with locals…. They insisted that I should head on into the city and take the road to Qom. I headed on and realised that I was getting closer and closer to the city centre, something I had hoped to avoid. I really don’t enjoy large cities, I am not interested in dealing with the congestion and chaos. I did a U turn and took the Azadagan road and all was well!

Today the temperatures have risen significantly….. topping out at 35 degrees. South of Tehran I removed my jacket’s thermal liner…... after that 35 degrees was comfortable.

I stayed in a hotel that I have used previously, Kashan Negarestan 900,000IR. Nice place, very good internet. Good coffee, good food. The manager speaks good English and is a well educated guy.

Kashan Mileometer 19723 (350 miles ridden)

26th September 2013 Dogubayazit, Turkey to Zanjan, Iran

26th September 2013  Dogubayazit, Turkey to Zanjan, Iran


I got up at 6.00am. Too early for breakfast…... I negotiated the improvised plywood ramp, down the hotels steps in reverse. I spent my last Turkish Lira on petrol to be sure that I would reach the border.

In 30 minutes I was at a very quiet crossing, In the shadow of Mount Ararat. 

The Turkish side of the border consisted of 3 phases, a Vehicle registration check, a police exit stamp and a customs check. At this time of morning, there were no money changers about, this was a great blessing. I moved on quickly to a pair of formidable rolling steel barriers. Turkey open their gate to let me exit, Iran took a little longer to open theirs. Once into the Iranian compound a Policeman took a brief look at my passport and then escorted me deep into the office complex. There were many Iranian and Turkish migrant workers within the complex, a lot of shouting and discord. I was lead to the office of a senior Police officer, who I have to say was a joker. I then fingerprinted myself…. twice!! The ink pad was poorly stocked with ink and I’m not sure the fingerprints will ever be of much use. The Police stamped my entry visa (either failing to notice or were indifferent to the spelling of my surname) I then exited into the customs hall. I walked through, then did a U turn to retrieve my bike. At this point Iranian "helpers" attempted to step in and guide me through the remaining processes. I held them at arms length. Most of the Iranian customs officers were informally dressed and it was difficult to identify them (or distinguish them from helpers) None the less my carnet was scribbled on in Farsi on a number of occaisions and stamped once on the back of the page!!?? The customs officers didn’t check the chassis or engine numbers of my bike? All of which defeats the purpose of a Carnet. At this point the helpers again milled around. They offered to escort me to the final barrier. I gathered, by their body language that was the critical element of their work….. they became more insistent, more determined and it was clear this was where they would get their reward. I simply got on my bike and rode away. 2km away, down a hill are a couple of other offices. Police double check everything and then you enter Iran proper.

I changed some money at maybe 20% less than the street rate (I was given 40000IR / £). I purchased petrol at 7000IR per litre…. Do the math! ;-)

I then set out into Iran. I made a few wrong turns and decided to install an Iranian map into my GPS. This entailed getting my laptop out on the side of some dusty road and fiddling around with data cards…. Must have looked very strange / suspicious to passing locals.

Iran is vast and is less developed than Turkey. Petrol stations are fewer and farther between. The landscape from Bazargan toward my destination Zanjan was beautifull. Much of Iran is desert of one kind or another, todays route was mountainous desert, mountains of every pastel shade. Pinks, greens, blues……

I passed several overland cyclists.

On arrival in Zanjan, I headed directly for the cities best hotel. The quoted me $100 or £80. The rate card at the counter was for 1,350,000IR. I couldn’t be bothered explaining that £80 was a rip off given that the street rate would have meant the room should cost £30….. I headed into the city to find a money changer. Good fortune intervened and the first local I asked for help was Amir. Amir took me to the "Sarafi" money changers and I got a great rate for my UK£ (1£=47800IR) For other travellers the word "Sarafi" will unlock a good deal. The exchange rate for the Iranian Real fluctuates wildy. To check current rates google Sarafi + Iran.

Amir and I went for a coffee and chatted about life in Iran. We spent a few enjoyable hours together and then I returned to my Hotel and paid in my newly exchanged Rials. Zanjan Grand 1,350,00IRR / £28

Zanjan Grand
 

Zanjan Mileometer 19373 ( Miles ridden)

25th September 2013. Erzurum, Turkey to Dogubayazit, Turkey

25th September 2013. Erzurum, Turkey to Dogubayazit, Turkey

 

I got up early and visited the Iranian consulate. They assured me, that although my surname is spelt incorrectly on my visa... "No problem... OK" I could do little but accept this at face value. I set out for the border, deciding that I would head for Dogubayazit (on the Turkish side of the border)

Spectacular scenery through what Kurds would call Kurdistan.

My fuel guage is playing up.... I will have to monitor fuel carefully now.... !!!  

 

 

Dogubayazit mileometer 18990 (160ish miles ridden) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

24th September 2013, Erzurum, Turkey.

24th September 2013, Erzurum, Turkey. Visa hunting......

I have an Iranian visa! Ya Hoo, great I can now move onto the border..... hold on one second... they have spelt my surname incorrectly :-(

I have pondered the situation quite carefully. I think I have to return to the consulate and get them to remedy things. The border is 200 miles from Erzurum and if they refuse me entry, it will be a further 200 mile return trip to get a corrected visa and then finally 200 miles to re trace my steps back to the border.

Finally a schoolboy error..... Always, always check important documents the moment they enter your possesion.



Parking at Esadas Hotel Erzurum

I took the following photo because it tells a tale of East meets West. Erzurum Mosque, apparently with a Pierre Cardin shop on the ground floor.....

 

23rd September 2013 Sivas, Turkey to Erzurum, Turkey

23rd September 2013 Sivas, Turkey to Erzurum, Turkey

A magnificent breakfast at Buruciye Hotel prior to departing Sivas. I can honestly say I have never seen a wider choice of foodstuffs... from honey comb, nougat, half a dozen types of olive, grilled aubergine..... many types of bread......

Eastern Turkey has a wild and dramatic landscape. Sparsely populated, expanisive and awe inspiring. The roads I followed, ran along valleys, crossed mountain ranges and huge plains. I reached an altitude of more than 7000 feet on several occaisions. At these altitudes temperatures plunged to 6 degrees. I rode through clouds..... Although challenging this is probably my most dramatic days riding thus far. Interestingly this year I have seen many other overlanders (on bicycles and motorbikes)... always in the opposite direction to me. Today I saw two cyclists climbing towards one of the mountain passes..... brave stuff.

 

 

I arrived in Erzurum, swiftly checked into Hotel Esadas 80TL (I stayed here last year ... the staff don't remember me!) I then walked to the Iranian Consulate to make the final arrangements to collect my Iranian visa.

Information for fellow travellers.... Today I have visited the Iranian consulate, Erzurum. I already had a visa authorisation code. The Consulate is located on Eminyet Sok. I am a UK citizen. Price was 180€ visa tomorrow... or 270€ visa today. To pay you have to visit a bank that is a 5 minute walk from the consulate. The bank is Ziraat Bankasi on Cumhuriyet Cad. When I got to the bank there was the mother of all Q's. Take a Q ticket as quickly as possible! I waited close to an hour before I got to a counter. The staff at the consulate speak good English. The guy who I dealt with is a Manchester United fan. I am fairly confident that my visa will be ready tomorrow. Not so difficult to pick up an Iranian visa in Erzurum provided you have an authorisation code.

I had another kebab..... quelle surprise. I then went on a beer hunt. Fail!

Erzurum mileometer 18824 (266 miles ridden)
I take the mileometer reading and then calculate miles ridden. Strangley the miles ridden that I calculate is always less than the journey distance given by Google maps?

 

22nd September Bolu, Turkey to Sivas, Turkey

22nd September Bolu, Turkey to Sivas, Turkey

Another fine days riding. Again rain was looking likely but ultimately not a drop fell.
My route took me to and around Ankarra, then on to Yozgat and Sivas. Before leaving the motorway network I finally managed to buy the HGS road tax that is required. For other travellers.... I purchased HGS at a motorway service station (Servis Alani) It cost 36TL. You need your passport and bike registration documents.  As I travelled eastward the roads became quieter and quieter. I covered close to 400 miles today and the latter part of the day was a pain in the neck, literally not metaphorically. I further lament the sale of my tall screen.

HGS motorway toll sticker on bike screen

Today's journey reinforces the scale of Turkey.



Bolu to Sivas .... 400 miles ish

 

 

Just like a Costa

 

When I arrived in Sivas I made way to the city centre. I then asked locals for directions. Finally a guy in his 60's climbed onto the back of my bike, no crash helmet, not a word of English spoken, he guided me to Hotel Buruciye, 49€.  I am faintly embarrassed about quite how opulent this hotel is. I have been upgraded to a suite, photographs do not do it justice.

 

I went walkabout to live like common people live, I had another delicious kebab. I again feel faintly embarrassed that it must appear that my adventure primarily entails drinking coffee, eating kebabs and drinking beer.

 

Oh and I saw the city's ancient minarets.

 

Outside I can hear quite a commotion. It is either civil unrest or a rowdy group of football fans? My nerves are all a jangle...Now exactly where is the hotel's bar?

 

 

 

Sivas mileometer 18560 (375 miles ridden)

 

 

 

 

 

21st September 2013 Edirne, Turkey to Bolu, Turkey

21st September 2013 Edirne, Turkey to Bolu, Turkey

Fine weather all day, although rain had been forecast for the latter part of my days journey.
Turkey has very nice motorways. You are meant to pay to use them, but try as I might I was unable to identify, the where, the when, the how and to whom. I am genuinely concerned about this. The automatic toll boths photograph me repeatedly and I am in no hurry to add un paid toll fees to my list of missdemeanours.

I am staying at the Remay Hotel in Bolu 40€. The hotel is family run, the place is immaculately clean and the staff delightfull. I have a lovely room. My bike is parked at the front door under a cctv camera. The staff rolled out a red carpet for me and all is well (.....possibly the red carpet was in fact a fixture and fitting of the hotel)
The staff have taught me my first Turkish word... mȅrhāba .... pronounced Meer ha ba... "Hello!" I have taught my self to remember this word on account of its remarkable closeness to Beer Kebab....

For the purpose of research and investigation I have eaten another BigMac meal. I can tell you that a Turkish BigMac is absolutely not one bit different to a Serbian BigMac. If Iran has a MacDonalds my important work will continue there.

I'm loving it..... again

Bolu Mileometer 18185 (310 miles ridden)



 

20th September 2013 Nis, Serbia to Edirne, Turkey

20th September 2013 Nis, Serbia to Edirne, Turkey

I got up early changed a headlight bulb, grabbed a salami baguette and a tankfull of petrol and departed Nis. Great weather all day......"I wondered lonely without a cloud"
My route took me through mountainous southern Serbia and then on across the border into Bulgaria.
Bulgaria's roads are an ecclectic mix. In parts great in parts poor. Their speed limit policy is bizzare. On their major motorway the limit is 140kph... yes very nice. Then on single carriageway roads that are an extension for the very same major motorway, a humble 60kph dropping to 40kph. The roads through Bulgaria link Turkey to the rest of Europe. The route sees a constant train of Turkish articulated lorries, ploughing back and forth.

I arrived at the Turkish border at 3pm. I purchased Turkish GreenCard insurance for 28Euro, A visa for £10 and made my way through the various checkpoints. Many of the checkpoints are staffed by the police, they input passport numbers and vehicle registration details. At every checkpoint my pulse quickened slightly... I have unpaid speeding fines! Ultimately Turkey welcomed me with open arms! no questions asked, letting bygones be bygones ;-)

Memories of last years border crossing surfaced and made the process quicker and easier.

I am staying just across the border in Edirne at the Isik Htoel 23€.  Nice city. It boasts 3 magificent mosques and vibrant city centre

 

 

I had a chicken kebab and coke for a modest 3.50 TL and then visited a cafe bar for a beer. Incongruously ... Hoegaarden at the less than modest price of 10 TL a bottle.

Edirne mileometer 17875 (302 miles ridden, 2 borders crossed)